Special
thanks to Mitchell Patrie for creating this section of the
FAQ
Mitchell
Patrie prestondrake@comcast.net
has used his talents to create templates that you can use
to protect your RT's paint from being rubbed by your pants
or boots.
Mitchell
says "I don't know if anyone else has this problem,
but my boots are abrading the paint between the kick panel
and the knee pad, especially on the shifter side. I now
have two pieces of vinyl on each side of the bike; they
fit great, and they're invisible from five feet away. For
the best results, it's important to be systematic about
how you squeeze the air out from under the vinyl so you
don't end up with any trapped bubbles.
The
big piece (shin.jpg) fits on the rear facing area between
the kick panel and the knee pad. The left and right side
pieces are mirror image; the angled side is the bottom,
and should be positioned about 12 mm (1/2") from the
top of the kick panel. The little triangle-shaped pieces
fit on the protrusions that touch the insides of your calves;
the pointed end faces the rear of the bike. For the piece
that goes on the right side, there is a cutout so that it
can fit around the throttle screw access hole."
After
using these for two months, Mitchell reports "So
far the pieces are doing a great job on my bike. The vinyl
is getting a bit scuffed and discolored, which means my
paint (and steer head) are indeed being protected. The vinyl
can readily be replaced as needed; fixing scratched paint
ain't so easy..."
The
drawing of the RT (position.jpg) at the bottom left, shows
the positions of these pieces in red.
If
you would like to use these patterns, click on the images
above and save the image file to your hard-drive. The dimension
shows how big the template should be when it's printed out.
After you download the image, use a graphics program to
open the file and print it. Microsoft Photo Editor (included
with Office 97) prints it at the correct size. Adobe Photoshop
doesn't get it right unless you go into the image/image-size
menu and manually set the width or height as required. The
simple image viewing program included with Win95/98 (start
-> programs -> accessories -> imaging) prints it
at the correct size without any trouble.
Finally
an answer from Cary Littell! <littell@pacbell.net>I
have found that aluminum polish works pretty well, and once
you get the black residue and the scratches off, I recommend
covering it up using some sticky vinyl or other covering.
If
you visit a local sign shop, such as the franchise store
"Signs USA" where they make commercial banners,
you can purchase clear or colored vinyl. Mitchell
Patrie prestondrake@comcast.net
had trouble finding any at a sign shop, but found that the
plastic was available at his local bikeshop - its the same
stuff racers use to put numbers on their bikes. Mitchell
is an expert with CAD, and set up a REAL template for your
use. Thanks Mitchell!
If
you would like to use this pattern, click on the image above
and save the file to your hard-drive. The dimension shows
how big the template should be when it's printed out. After
you download the image, use a graphics program to print
it. Microsoft Photo Editor (included with Office 97) prints
it at the correct size. Adobe Photoshop doesn't get it right
unless you go into the image/image-size menu and manually
set the width or height as required. The simple image viewing
program included with Win95/98 (start -> programs ->
accessories -> imaging) prints it at the correct size
without any trouble.
Individual
results may vary, so ensure a good fit before you peel-off
the backing and apply the vinyl!
I
am using clear on my RT, and its pretty much invisible!
George
Westcott gwestcot@iamerica.net
has another idea beside plastic film: "In
the past I have used, instead of a plastic film, a piece
of old neoprene mouse pad that I epoxied (2 part) into place.
I cut a template from a piece of cardboard and traced it
onto the pad. I then trimmed it to fit. You can use either
the black side up or if you have a favorite pattern or color,
you can use that side up. An added benefit to the neoprene
over the plastic film is that if you have a lot of keys,
the neoprene quiets the rattling from the keys."
If
you have not been willing to shell out for the extended
fender, Mitchell
Patrie prestondrake@comcast.net
has come to our rescue with a template and instructions
for putting a cover on the "chin" of the fairing
behind the front wheel.
|
Template |
Instructions |
If
you would like to use this pattern, click on the image above
and save the file to your hard-drive. The dimension shows
how big the template should be when it's printed out. After
you download the image, use a graphics program to print
it. Microsoft Photo Editor (included with Office 97) prints
it at the correct size. Adobe Photoshop doesn't get it right
unless you go into the image/image-size menu and manually
set the width or height as required. The simple image viewing
program included with Win95/98 (start -> programs ->
accessories -> imaging) prints it at the correct size
without any trouble.
The
full template is wide enough that you have to print it out
in two halves and then tape them together along the centerline.
Ideally you would cut the guard from a single large piece
of vinyl; if you don't have a piece that big, then you can
cut the guard as two halves and then try to align them on
the bike. The inner set of lines is for the smaller template.
If you ride on a lot of gravel-strewn roads, you may want
the larger template; otherwise, the smaller one may give
satisfactory performance. The larger template is a big complicated
piece
to put on, so I practiced a couple of times and came up
with a procedure that seems to work OK. The basic steps
are illustrated in the
instruction image: the numbers and arrows indicate areas
to be applied and smoothed, and the order in which they
should be done. It's important to get that back edge lined
up properly, which is why it's the first step; once that's
done, everything else should line up pretty well. The last
step, wrapping that big tab under the bottom of the panel,
is also important, because it helps stretch the rest of
the bottom edge around those compound curves. Best bet is
to use all four of your fingers, start from the base of
that tab, and gradually smooth the whole thing down, keeping
those edges nice and tight to pull things into shape.
I
really recommend sacrificing some vinyl for a practice piece
as I did. Once you have it cut out, stick it to some carpet
several times to dull the adhesive so you can remove it
from the panel easily after you're done practicing and have
satisfied yourself as to exactly how the final piece will
fit.
Once
again, Mitchell Patrie prestondrake@comcast.net
comes the rescue with a template to protect the paint
in this area: "The rear of the fuel tank is an area
that jacket zippers, belt buckles, and tank bags seem
to touch with distressing frequency. Considering all the
other templates I've cranked out, I figured this was another
area that was ripe for application.
This
template is intended to fit at the back end of the center
panel on the top of the fuel tank, directly in front of
the saddle. The last 1/4" of vinyl is supposed to
wrap around the back edge of the tank. If you've got reasonably
flexible vinyl with good quality adhesive, you should
be able to make it lay flat and stay there, even over
that compound curvature. As with the other templates though,
I recommend cutting a test piece first and dulling the
adhesive by sticking it to carpet or fleece several times.
Once you've confirmed that the size is right and that
you'll be able to make it lay down over that curve, then
go ahead and cut/apply the final piece.
Click
on the image above for a full size version. The template
should be sized right to print out correctly. If it doesn't
measure up to the listed size, feel free to adjust the
dpi setting using your favorite image editing software.
|
